How To Coax Fresh Vegetables From The Garden All Winter Long

By Ahmed Hajouj.


Autumn typically signals the end of home grown vegetables from the garden, but with a little ingenuity you can harvest garden fresh produce well into the winter months. My Central Pennsylvania garden continues to supply fresh vegetables during the fall and winter when most gardeners in my growing region are content to dream about next summer’s bounty. Read on to discover simple tricks that will fortify your garden against the onslaught of frigid weather.

Fall often delivers brief cold spells with a few frost filled mornings, sandwiched between weeks of milder, frost-free conditions. The problem is that a single touch of frost can wipe out every tender annual growing in the garden. Fortunately, a little protection will enable frost sensitive vegetables and herbs to survive a cold snap, and reward the resourceful gardener with an opportunity to enjoy extended harvests.

Something as simple as the transparent, fleecy, floating row covers used to shield plants from harmful insects can also prevent frost damage. Row covers trap the warmth that radiates up from the earth much like the way that a cloud cover holds temperatures and prevents frost from forming. Row covers offer a few degrees of protection, keeping tender annuals safe from light frost. Use the thicker grade covers for maximum benefit.

Late summer is the ideal time to sow cold tolerant vegetables that will flourish in the fall and endure cold weather without complaint. Examples of hardy vegetables for fall gardening include: kale, spinach, collards, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, kohlrabi, turnips, cabbages, oriental greens, rutabagas, and some varieties of lettuce. 

Once freezing conditions arrive, even cold hardy crops will appreciate some protection if they remain in the garden. Cardboard boxes and fruit baskets can provide shelter to individual plants, while old sheets, blankets, and heavy plastic tarps will protect entire rows or beds of plants. Apply the coverings in the evening when freezes are forecast and remove them the following morning after the sun warms the air. 

Another effective solution is to use a commercial variety of cloche, or to set up a portable cold frame over the garden bed. Cloches include the heavy glass, bell shaped jars, or variously styled and shaped rigid plastic devices.

One style of cold frame consists of a tubular frame covered by a woven poly material with flaps for venting. You can also obtain sturdier cold frames made with aluminum framing and twin wall polycarbonate panels that lift up for venting. Regardless of the type of protection used to cover your plants you must remove it or provide venting during the day as temperatures rise.

Resourceful gardeners can combine a few discarded window sashes and bales of straw to create a simple makeshift cold frame. Just arrange the straw bales into a rectangular shape around a garden bed and lay the windows across the top to form an enclosed and insulated growing area. This setup will work great to keep a bed of leafy greens growing further into the winter.

Oddly enough, water can protect and insulate plants from the cold. Commercial orchards actually spray water and mist onto their trees to prevent frost damage. 

In the home garden you can employ plastic gallon jugs filled with water to provide protection. Place the containers around plants, under floating row covers or tarps, and inside of your cold frames.

The water will absorb and store heat during the day and release it at night to provide warmth for your plants. You’ll get the best results by painting the jugs black so that they’ll absorb more energy from the sun during the day. Incredibly, even if the water in the container freezes, it will continue to release a significant amount of heat energy into the surrounding area.

Certain vegetables will survive on their own in the garden through bitterly cold conditions. Leeks, kale, and collards frequently withstand harsh winters without any protection. Fall planted garlic and shallots will develop strong root systems in the fall, spend the winter underground, and then spring up at the earliest signs of the arrival of spring.

Many root crops including beets, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and parsnips can be left in the garden protected with a thick layer of shredded leaves or straw. You can then continue harvesting as needed, provided that the ground doesn’t freeze and prevent digging. Complete your harvesting before spring arrives though, since quality will degrade once the roots resume growing and switch into seed production mode.

With proper planning and a little extra care you can easily grow and harvest vegetables beyond the normal spring and summer seasons. Simply implement a few of the ideas presented in this article and you’ll soon enjoy your own home grown, fresh produce much longer than usual, possibly even year-round.

Preventing Diseases in Fruit Trees

By Ahmed Hajouj.


If you maintain any pitted fruit trees such as plums, peaches, or cherries, I’m sure you know that those types of trees are much more susceptible to diseases than any other type. While the fruits are delicious, it can be rather hard to live with all of the maladies that can plague the life of everyone who has ever grown one of those types of fruit trees.

The main disease that you will hear about the most is known as “Brown Rot”. This is a fungus that attaches to many of the leftover fruits after the picking season is over. Not only does it look disgusting on the leftover fruits, but it also can come back on the newer fruits, rendering them inedible (unless you enjoy eating fungus). To prevent this malady, you should prune your trees often to encourage good air circulation. Buildups of moisture are the main cause of the brown rot. Also when you are done picking for the season, you should get rid of all of the leftover fruits in the tree or on the ground.

A cytospora canker is a disgusting dark, soft area on tree branches. Gum protrudes through the bark, along with a large callus. The pathogen which causes these cankers usually enters the tree through older wounds. If you prune all of the sprouts that occur in late summer, cankers will have a harder time making themselves known within your tree. When you prune, always allow the wounds to heal naturally rather than use the wound dressings that you can buy at gardening stores. I’ve found that these usually do very little to help any situation, and only serve to make the tree look unnatural.

Those planting plum trees might deal with something called Black Knot. The symptoms of black not are rough tumors or growths that can be seen on the tree’s branches. If you see any of these, you should immediately chop off the branch it has attached to. If you use branches for mulch usually, don’t for this one. This disease can easily re-enter the tree if it is within a certain distance.

Almost everyone who has ever maintained a cherry tree has dealt with the “Cherry Leaf Spot”. It usually shows itself when there are old dead leaves accumulated on the ground. Preventing this disease is fairly easy. All you have to do is be fairly diligent in raking up all of the leaves that fall from your tree. If you have already seen signs of the disease, you should destroy all of your raked leaves. If not, then you can use them as mulch.

When your fruits ripen and become ready for picking, you should always be completely finished with picking within 2 weeks. It is best to daily go outside and pick all of the new ripe fruits, along with any that have fallen off of the tree or are starting to rot on the tree. By doing this, you will prevent bees and wasps from becoming too dependent on your tree for nourishment.

Growers of fruit trees are constantly faced with diseases and pests to worry about. However, if you take the proper precautions then you can avoid most of them. You should also look for any diseases that have been affecting your local area, and try to take steps to prevent those as well.

How to Prevent Small Fruits

By Ahmed Hajouj.


The one thing that usually shocks new tree growers is the fact that the fruits produced by their tree are much smaller than the ones they’re used to seeing at the grocery store. “What is wrong with my tree?!”, “My God! What have I done!?” are some cried you may hear from the disgruntled tree grower. However, small fruits are a natural occurrence. But while smaller fruits might be what nature originally intended, it is possible to attain larger fruits without any genetic altering or added chemicals. It is only through advanced techniques that the professionals reach such large sizes with their fruits.

Usually in the early stages of a fruit trees growing, veterans do something called “fruit thinning”. The theory behind this process is that with less fruits to pay attention to, the tree will be able to more efficiently send cells to the leftover fruits. When there are hundreds of little fruits on one tree, competing for the available materials necessary for growth, you will most likely just end up with a bunch of stunted fruits. To take care of this problem, simply pluck a third of the fruits extremely early on in the process. You should notice larger fruits that season.

On almost any tree, the success of each individual fruit depends on the spacing. Usually there should not be any fruits within six to eight inches of each other. During the fruit thinning process, this is the distance you should generally aim for to optimize the amount of nutrition that each fruit gets. Any closer and you’ll find they are crowding each other out. Usually this is the first mistake that a new tree grower makes. Having tons of fruit starting to grow is not always a good thing!

Sometimes small fruits are caused by conditions out of the gardener’s control. During the process of cell division that all new fruits go through, cool weather can be fatal to the largeness of your fruits. Likewise, if the weather is particularly cloudy very early in the season, then fewer carbohydrates will be available to your plants. Occasionally, if the factors are all against the well being of your fruit tree, then the fruits will drop to the ground before they are even ripe. A lack of water or certain nutrients, or excessive pests and diseases can also damage the growth of fruits. If you notice these things going on early in the season, you should do more fruit thinning than normal. Sometimes as much as three fourths of the fruits should come off, to allow full nutrition to those who remain.

The best way to find out how to gain larger fruit sizes is to experiment. If your tree has been around for a while, there is almost nothing you can do to it to cause it to die or stop producing fruit. Just test different thinning techniques or anything you can think of to make the fruits larger. You might even head down to your local nursery and enquire about what they would suggest. They will be able to give you advice based on your region and specific tree, which is better than anything I could tell you. So don’t settle with small fruits. Go out there and find out what exactly you need to do to improve the size.

5 Factors to Consider When Choosing Greenhouse Lighting

By Ahmed Hajouj.


If you are one of those few people who are in love with nature, then, having a greenhouse garden at your background is an incredible idea. In fact, according to some statistical reports, 80% of the 100 people that owned greenhouses in the United States were nature lovers, while the remaining 20% said it was purely for commercial gains.

Built specially for plant cultivation, greenhouses or hothouses are specially designed to suit the needs of every plant lover. It is a sanctuary where people and plants can bond together and enjoy each other as they fill the world with lush flora and abundant greens.

In as much as greenhouses are designed to provide the perfect environment for any kind of plant, there are some cases wherein the viability of the equipment is still dependent on the owner of the greenhouse or to those who manage the area.

In this sense, it is important for every greenhouse owner to see to it that the needs of the conservatory are being met.

The Greenhouse Setting

Technically, the main concept of a greenhouse is that the plants are placed in a space confined in a specially designed structure. Since the plants were not cultivated in an open area, it is extremely important for the owner to provide the necessary requirements that the plants have.

One should keep in mind that the plants are placed in a secured place; hence, it is the responsibility of the greenhouse owner or the one who manages the place to provide the needs similar to that of the ones being enjoyed by the plants in the exterior environment.

The Lighting

One of the most important necessities of every plant in order to manufacture its own food is the light. You have probably learned from your grade school science teacher that plants need light in order to produce its own food, along with the other factors such as water and air.

With respect to the conditions inside the greenhouse, it is important for the plants to receive adequate amount of light in order to develop and grow on its maximum state. This is especially useful during winter, where no amount of natural light can be produced.

Hence, it is extremely significant to provide some artificial lights in order to supply the lighting needs of every plant inside the hothouse.

Today, there are various kinds of lighting features that are built to suit the individual needs of the plants being cultivated in greenhouses. Choosing a specific greenhouse light can be very tricky, especially if you are not yet familiar with it.

Hence, it is so important to consider some factors when buying a greenhouse light. Here is the list that you can use when buying the items:

1. Type of greenhouse

Before buying a greenhouse light, try to consider first the kind of greenhouse that you have. Is it a commercial greenhouse or a personal one? 

Knowing what type of greenhouse that you have could easily teach you what kind of light to choose. For instance, if you have a commercial greenhouse, it is best that you buy a light that is created to endure humid, adverse conditions that are commonly found in commercial conservatories.

2. Length of use

It does not necessarily mean that when you buy lighting fixtures you will absolutely use them 24 hours a day. The duration of light use in greenhouses are based on “photoperiods.” This means that the period, in which, the light will be used may vary. For example, one may use lighting for a “12-hour photoperiod.” This means that within 24 hours cycle, lighting will be used for 12 hours and 12 hours with no light at all.

Hence, it is important to buy a light that will provide the necessary benefits even if it will take longer hours of use.

3. Purpose

Buy a light that will focus more on your desired results. For instance, if you want to motivate the growth of your flowering plants like the orchids, it is best to buy a light that will put more weight on the “spectrum colors” like the red, blue and the “far-red wavelengths.”

Besides, the colors of the light have notable effects on the plant growth. This means that not all light can actually produce the desired results.

4. Electrical efficiency

Even if lighting can provide most of what your greenhouse needs, it is also important to take note of the efficiency of the product. This means that you should better opt for those lighting products that provide optimum effect without having to compromise the amount of energy that they consume.

It would be better to buy lights that are efficient but can still conserve as little energy as possible.

5. Heat

Do remember that lighting should only be used where it is needed. This goes to show that any light that emits more than what it is needed for is actually worthless. Simply put, a light that emits more heat as it releases light is of no use. Too much heat on plants will trigger its death. For example, it is not a good idea to buy an incandescent bulb because it gives out too much heat.

Indeed, lighting is such an important factor in a plant’s development. Hence, it is very important to consider the kinds of light to be used in your greenhouse in order to ensure the quality of plant growth that you want to achieve.

How Greenhouse Climates Work in the Growth of Plants

By Ahmed Hajouj.


There are geothermal heated greenhouses that support a plant’s life process in changing climate conditions. These heated greenhouses consume a large amount of heat energy when it comes to gardening and agriculture. However, it should be satisfying to most gardeners because of the good results they provide to the growth and development of a plant.

Most of these energy needs and geothermal conditioning are basically structured according to the environmental and ecological orientation of most greenhouses. The energy needs are adjusting based on the certain climate changes that may occur from the different seasons of the year. They are built with light materials that have minimal insulating features to create a stable climate inside the greenhouse. 

The external climate brings a different approach to an internal climate system in a greenhouse. The necessity to have a greenhouse may occur during colder seasons where there is limited sunlight. The main purpose of having an internal climate system is to optimize the needed factors for plant growth. The internal climate factor that will be obtained is the photosynthesis process involved in environment and plant reactions. 

Photosynthesis is the reaction process between the plants and the sun’s solar radiation. This means that carbon dioxide is supplied by sunlight to create a life process for the plants. There is a certain amount of climate heat that is calculated to designate the needed supply for lighting and heating. The greenhouse climate is essential in calculating the needed heat and coldness to the demand of the greenhouse. 

The existence of heating and humidifying systems can adjust to the conditions of any external climate changes. Some processes that take part to the continuous energy balance maintained in any greenhouse is the water transport through the soil, plant canopy, and air. The formation of chlorophyll affects the entire internal climate. This happens because of the effect of heat transfer, solar light, oxygen and carbon dioxide cycle. 

Here are some factors in valuing each aspect of parameters that is important to the climate condition and character of the internal climate. 

1.  The air movement in the greenhouse may influence the needed heat transfer on the air composition to the plant canopy. It also involves the process of water transfer to the plant canopy. This process will sustain the energy balance needed by the plants to continue a healthier life process in the greenhouse. 

2.  The heating installation is essential for the proper distribution of temperature inside the greenhouse. It also allows a controlled air movement to maintain the humidity and moisture in air characteristics that is affected by the external climate changes. 

3.  The water transport in the greenhouse also plays a big role in sustaining the photosynthetic process in the environment the plants. The roots have aspects pertaining to cultivation base that offers a needed amount of water, which is also needed in humidity and greenhouse temperature. 

4.  The air temperature affects the whole energy state inside the greenhouse. It is the connective heat supplied in the different aspects of the environment. The characteristic of the air movement in the greenhouse influences the leaves and stems of each plant. 

5.  The light factor is very essential in producing photosynthesis reaction to the plant’s canopy and to the formation of carbon dioxide that serves a big role in the respiration of the plants. Its necessity takes significance on the plants’ development and life process inside the greenhouse. Solar radiation provides instant intensity of light spectrum to supply the needed warmth and heat energy during colder seasons. 

6.  The soil or ground base temperature affects the condition of the climate inside the greenhouse as well. The significant parameter involves the transfer of heat energy directly to the ground structure, which includes the roots and the water flow system that partakes in the plants’ growth.

7.  The carbon dioxide concentration also takes part in the life process inside the greenhouse. The normal average of carbon dioxide concentration in the external air atmosphere is 0.03%. This is important to maintain a balanced temperature and humidity density in a greenhouse. 

It is important for a greenhouse to have installed systems to create an environment that will provide continuous life process for plants in changing climate conditions. A well-planned greenhouse climate should assure a person of having proper distribution of light, temperature, water, carbon dioxide, and other essential factors needed for every plant to grow.

Bonsai Care

By Ahmed Hajouj.


What are the basics of effective Bonsai care. 

Caring for your Bonsai tree involves many of the same activities associated with caring for a pot plant or an indoor plant. Well developed and healthy fibrous roots are essential for the continued good health of your Bonsai tree and repotting is an essential way to manage this process. Normally a young or fast growing Bonsai will need to be repotted roughly once a year; for less prolific growers or older trees it can be done as infrequently as once every five years. You should always try to repot during late winter or early spring when the buds start to swell. 

How to repot a Bonsai tree. 

The process of repotting a Bonsai tree is one that you should take seriously and follow these simple instructions: 

First, you should tidy the tree by carefully pruning off any unwanted, long branches. Also, make sure the tree has been under cover for a few weeks if it is an outdoor Bonsai, this way the soil will be relatively dry. Once you remove the tree from it’s pot you will be able to see whether it really needs repotting. If it is root bound then you should repot it, however, if there are another few inches of room so the roots can grow a little longer then you can carefully replace the tree in it’s original pot and continue as normal. 

You should remove surface soil from the roots either by hand or using a nylon scrubbing brush. Brush away from the trunk and be careful not to damage any of the roots. Removing the loose soil will give the Bonsai tree a healthier look and feel. Once you’ve removed most of the soil in this way, you can use a small, fine bristled paintbrush to remove the soil stuck in the roots or that has collected in the roots. 

Use a Bonsai fork to comb out the roots. Do this by combing out the roots from underneath and then use scissors to prune up to a third of the roots and then cut out small wedges around the root base to allow fresh soil to collect and keep your Bonsai healthy. Add a layer of grit to the bottom of the pot and then add the Bonsai compst of your choice. 

Take the time to position your Bonsai tree in the pot and then push a little more soil into awkward places. Complete this as often as you need to as mentioned above.

Create Lasting Color In Your Garden

By Ahmed Hajouj.


Designing a beautiful flower garden is a lot like conducting a symphony. You mix and match plants just like the notes of a great concerto. There are moments of drama and impact followed by ones of subtle beauty and texture. Strong notes contrast with soft ones. Individual notes seem stark by themselves, but when they come together, they create beauty much greater than any of the parts.

“It really doesn’t take a maestro to create lasting color in your garden,” says Bayer Advanced™ garden expert Lance Walheim, who wrote the best-selling book “Roses for Dummies.” “But there are some tips to make sure your garden looks great throughout the growing season”: 

1. Establish a color theme and stick to it. This will bring order to what often seems like a chaotic mix of bright colors. Try different flowers in shades of one color or blend complementary colors such as red and violet. For an even stronger impact, mix contrasting colors like yellow and blue or yellow and red. Take clues from the color of your home or hardscape. 

2. Use all kinds of plants. Nurseries and garden centers are full of flowering annuals and perennials, but don’t overlook flowering shrubs and small trees. Landscape roses in particular can form the blooming backbone of your garden. And don’t forget bulbs like tulips and daffodils. Expand the possibilities.

3. Work the seasons. It’s easy to plan a spring garden. The bigger challenge is to have great color throughout the growing season. Look for summer- and fall-blooming plants, but don’t overlook trees and shrubs with great fall foliage color or brightly colored fruit. 

4. Use a touch of white. White flowers make everything else look better, so add a few if you need an extra punch.

5. Throw in some bold foliage. Strong foliage plants, like purple fountain grass, variegated English ivy or dusty miller, contribute texture and make your garden even more striking.

6. Let your garden evolve. Great gardens don’t happen overnight. If a particular plant isn’t working, take it out and try something new.

After you’ve done all the work planting and landscaping your new color-themed garden, make sure it stays healthy throughout the growing season. Bayer Advanced™ All-in-One Rose & Flower Care contains an insecticide, fertilizer and fungicide that protect and feed your plants for up to six weeks. And there is no spraying; just mix and pour from a watering can around the base of the plant. It’s a great insurance policy for your living work of art.

Marjoram The Herb Of Happiness

By Ahmed Hajouj.


Called the “herb of happiness,” Origanum majorana, commonly known as sweet marjoram or knotted marjoram, is an herbal symbol of peace and well-being. Marjoram is grown as an annual in the colder parts of the world but is perennial in warmer regions. To keep it growing as a perennial, bring it indoors for the winter. Marjoram may be grown as a houseplant and as it has a tendency to trail when grown indoors, it makes a nice hanging basket. Marjoram has small, grey-green, oval-shaped leaves that are velvety to the touch. Tiny white or pink flowers, reddish stems, and the grey-green colour of the leaves make marjoram an attractive border plant. 

Marjoram grows 10 – 24 inches (25 – 60 cm) tall. Cultivation requirements: does best in full sun (will tolerate slight shade); well-drained soil; no fertiliser; water soil sparingly but do not let dry out; pinch back the tips or harvest sprigs to use in cooking to keep it bushy and productive. 

Marjoram is easily grown from seed or cuttings. For spring planting, start seed indoors 6 – 8 weeks before your last frost date. Keep the soil moist during germination. After germination, move the seedlings into a sunny position, and transplant into the garden after all danger of frost has passed. If you are bringing marjoram plants in-doors for over-wintering, pot up in fresh potting soil. Check for critters and if your plants are infected, spray with a soap and water spray.

Marjoram requires at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. If you are growing marjoram on a windowsill, turn frequently to ensure all sides receive light. Marjoram can be grown under fluorescent lights. Hang the lights 6 inches (15 cm) from the plants and leave on for 14 hours a day.

In the garden, marjoram entices bees and butterflies for maximum nectar production and pollination. It is a good companion plant for all vegetables especially beets, eggplant, pumpkin, onions, and zucchini as it aids in their growth and fights off insects. Grow marjoram in pots in the garden as well as in the soil. In the kitchen, use in tomato dishes, onions, dairy, eggs, potato salad, soups, mushrooms, brussel sprouts, oil dressings for salads, carrots, and cauliflower. Fresh leaves and young shoots can be added to salads. It is a major ingredient, usually dried, in sausages, poultry seasonings, Italian recipes, or stuffings. Sprinkle fresh or dried marjoram on pizza. Sprinkle finely chopped fresh leaves on meat or fish before roasting, grilling, or baking. A tea can be made with marjoram to treat colds, headaches, and stomach upsets. Add 3 teaspoons (15 mL) fresh marjoram to 1 cup (250 mL) boiling water. Let steep, then drink slowly. Use marjoram sparingly as it is deceptively potent. Add during the last 10 minutes of cooking.

Marjoram will keep several days in the refrigerator. The leaves can be harvested as soon as the plant starts blooming. The leaves dry easily and can also be frozen. Many cooks prefer marjoram rather than oregano (closely related), as marjoram is much less pungent. To make potpourri, dry leaves whole and then crush to release the scent.

Adding Beauty To Your Garden With An Arbor

By Ahmed Hajouj.


Garden arbors are set up as shaded places in home gardens or public parks where one can relax and rest. These open frameworks are typically made of latticework or rustic work, functioning also as a trellis for climbing or creeping plants. Arbors can also be constructed for decks or patios. Today’s garden arbors were not the first attempt to enhance the beauty of gardens. In the 400s B.C. and A.D. 400′s, elaborate courtyards were a hallmark of many Roman homes. Landscape architecture was also given a premium in Japanese gardens (A.D. 500′s) and Persian gardens (A.D.200′s-600′s). Beauty was also a priority for civic plazas and hillside estates for Italians in the 1400′s-1500′s. City gardens and majestic palaces were the highlight of France during the 1600′s and 1700′s, while country estates with a natural look were the main theme followed by English designers in the 1800′s.

1. Landscape Architecture

For a good number of these early country estates and gardens, designers were known as landscape gardeners. An American – Frederick Law Olmsted – was the first to use ‘landscape architect’. He indicated this title when he approved design plans for Manhattan’s Central Park in New York City with Calvert Vaux as his partner in the 1850′s. Landsape architecture is not limited to major projects. Some homeowners tap the services of professionals to add beauty to their gardens. However, others now feel confident in do-it-yourself projects as a cost-effective alternative to make their gardens beautiful.

2. Use Quality Materials

Creating a small garden arbor is an easy task, with costs becoming significantly less if the homeowner is patient enough to shop around and compare prices, particularly for pressure-treated lumber. Other items that may vary slightly across discount stores in price terms are deck screws, scrap lumber, crushed stone or gravel, washers, bolts and nuts. The same principles apply to building larger arbors, although some ideas and items would tend to increase in scale. As an example, using two posts for a small arbor may mean using four posts for a large one, as a bigger arbor would need greater support for strength and stability, and also to enhance alignment.

3. Designing a Garden Arbor: Some Do-It-Yourself Fundamentals

- To stabilize the arbor, the homeowner should have the main posts of the structure sunk into concrete poured into holes below the garden’s ground level.

- The carpenter’s level is used to determine if the posts stand at equal heights. The tool is also used to establish plumbness, or if the posts are vertically ‘level.’

- Wooden crosspieces in varying measurements can be attached perpendicular to the posts for further support.

- Since some rejects still make their way to lumber stores, one should be patient enough to sort through many boards until a good quality board is found.

- Buyers should remember that conventional measurements are not exact: a 4 by 4 may actually measure 3.5 by 3.5, while 2 by 4 may measure 1.5 by 3.5.

- The same consideration for post height must also be given, as part of the arbor posts will be underground. Galvanized post anchors is one option homeowners have if they intends to make use of the post’s full height – or have all posts above ground level – for their garden.

4. Tools For Do-It-Yourself Projects

These will actually cost a lot more if one does not have the necessary tools at home for building garden arbors. 

- Circular saw or handsaw

- Stepladder

- Wheelbarrow

- Hammer

- Wrench

- Spade bit

- Garden hose

- Carpenter’s level

- Shovel

- Drill

- File

- Wood chisel

5. Building Tips

- Arbor boards can already be pre-drilled and pre-cut as a time-saving step.

- The wooden crosspieces can be designed at the ends. Patterns can be drawn using a pencil and later cut using a jigsaw.

Tips For Care And Landscaping Your Real Turf

By Ahmed Hajouj.


Everyone likes verdant lawns. The green looking lawns are a result of painstaking efforts and some real turf care. It is not very difficult to maintain the green turf as in golf courses or the horse races. Read all about it here

Easy and simple Real Turf Care Guidelines

A green looking turf that you see in the catalogues of golf clubs is not very difficult to maintain. You too can do this landscaping . All it takes is work and some common sense tips. You will be surprised if I were to tell you that you could have a good lawn if you follow the rule of 25 mm and the rule of third. Let me explain,

Watering of Lawn: You should water the lawn just enough so that the evaporation loss is replenished and the grass gets its due share. The rule of 25 gives the value of water loss through evaporation.

When watering the lawn. Take a dish and keep it in the area where watering is being done and allow about 25 mm height of water to get stored in the dish. After watering is complete, place the dish in the same where it was filled up and allow the water to evaporate. Note the time required for water to evaporate. You should water the lawn after this time interval.

The watering should be heavy and infrequent rather than frequent and shallow. When you water the lawn shallow, the root system starts looking for water and the root system does not penetrate deep in the ground. At the same time there should be no water logging in any area. The water logging would destroy the grass in that area.

Over-watering will not kill the grass but water logging will definitely do it. In fact over-watering is good. Infrequent over-watering coupled with generous use of nitrogen rich fertilizers will help in developing spongy grass on which you will feel elated when walking.

Watering of lawns should be done in the morning so that the water has time to penetrate to the ground. Water evaporation is highest during noontime. Watering at this time, would only allow higher evaporation. You do not want water to evaporate, you want it to reach the ground and penetrate the surface, so water in the morning or evening when evaporation rate is minimal.

Mowing The Lawns Second Real Turf Care

Mowing the lawns carefully and timely is the second care that you will give to the lawns. The rule for the real turf care is rule of third. When mowing the lawns, do not cut the grass more than the third of the existing blade length. A marine crew cut is not the best way to develop green grass. In fact, you are killing the grass if you give it a marine crew cut.

The root system does not develop properly when you give it a close shave and the growth of grass is reduced. Hence, the grass should never be cut close to ground. Depending on the type of grass the blade length could be between 20 to 40 mm. For example, the buffalo grass should be allowed to grow 30 to 40 mm in summer and winter before cutting. Follow the rule of third and the minimum blade length will be maintained.

When you cut the grass, you may leave the cut grass instead of removing it so that the grass gets its food from the cut grass. Care should be taken to see that thatching of soil should not occur; otherwise, grass growth could be restricted.

With two simple rules, you can get good-looking lawns.

Create The Perfect Garden Pond

By Ahmed Hajouj.


One of the biggest privileges in my life is the ability to own my own home and property. My family and I have been blessed to be able to purchase land and create the home of our dreams on it. When I am not busy writing, there are few things you can find me doing as often as tending to my ever- messy home and overwhelming lawn and garden. I have a love and hate relationship with these chores. One the one hand, I love caring for the things I own because I feel a sense of pride about them. Yet, on the other hand, it is frustrating how much time and energy it takes to keep your home and lawn looking presentable. Recently I added to my chores by putting a garden pond in my backyard.

Frankly, I had always thought that garden ponds or really decorative pieces like them were a bit too much in most yards. They looked a bit too perfect and made the property feel less homey and inviting. I had a change of heart about garden ponds when I toured the home of a friend and discovered the most quaint and brilliant garden pond situated in a corner of her backyard. The garden pond brought an extra touch to her landscaping that became irreplacable as soon as she began.

What I now love about garden ponds is that they bring a sense of nature and of wildness into the backyard of a home that is built almost anywhere. I have seen garden ponds in the backyards of homes in urban subdivisions and in the backyards of the most quaint country cabins. And I love them. I simply love what a garden pond does for the look and feel of a piece of property.

If you are thinking of adding a garden pond to your landscape, think carefully about it and do not proceed without caution. One of the worst things can be to rush into a project like a garden pond and then regret a half-done job. Take your time and get the opinions and advice of friends and fellow landscapers before you break ground on your garden pond project. Think carefully about the perfect location of your garden-pond-to-be. Does the area you’ve chosen get enough sunshine? Do you want it to be centrally located as the center piece of your landscape or off to the side and hidden more? Think about the ideal yard you want to create and then proceed carefully into making a great garden pond.

Grab a few books or get online and find hints on making a garden pond a reality on your property. It won’t be easy, but if done well, the results will be worth it.

How To Grow Ornamental Grasses

By AHmed Hajouj.


Ornamental grasses have become extremely popular in the past ten years or so, and if you buy them at a garden center they are kind of pricey. Learning how to grow them yourself is actually quite easy. They can be grown from seed, but I won’t pretend to be an expert at that for several reasons. One, I don’t know anything about growing them from seed, and two, I have no desire to propagate them from seed because seedlings require too much care.



The easiest and most effective way to propagate them is through simple division. Of course you will need at least one parent plant of each variety that you would like to grow. If you shop around you might be able to find some 4″ inch pots at a fair price.



One of each variety is good for a start. I find that the best time of the year to divide them is in the spring, just before the new growth emerges. If you buy the stock plants in the early spring, you might be able to divide them right away. If you buy them at any other time of the year, just plant them in your garden or other suitable location, knowing that you are going to dig them up in a few months, or a year or so.

When spring arrives you can divide them at any time as long as they are not well into putting on new growth. The earlier the better. To divide them simply dig up the root mass and start dividing it into pieces. The divisions do not have to be to be very large. It’s difficult to describe, but as long as you have some roots, the new plant is likely to grow. 

If you have small young plants you can probably just tear the root mass apart with your hands, but if the root mass is very big then you are going to need some tools. You might need some heavy duty tools!



Last spring I divided several grass plants that had been in my landscape for a few years. When I dug out the root mass it was much larger and more dense than I expected. Using a very good digging spade and some real elbow power I was able to chop the root mass into quarters, and I replanted the quarters back into my landscape. That still left many clumps that I wanted to divide into very small plants that I could pot up in 2 quart containers. The root mass was too dense to tear apart with my hands, so I literally got a hammer and a 4″ wide mason’s chisel and chiseled off pieces. It worked and I now have a couple of hundred beautiful little grass plants in 2 quart containers.



Since then I have talked with a friend of mine who works for a large wholesale grower, and he told me that you never want to let an ornamental grass plant get that big if you intend to divide it. He said they plant small divisions in the field in the spring, and dig them up the following spring and divide them again. He assured me that if you get them just 12 months later, they can be easily torn apart by hand.



That sounds like a lot more fun than what I went through!

Fall Planting

By Ahmed Hajouj.


Most people don’t think of Fall as a time for planting new landscaping and garden plants. To most, it’s time to put garden ventures to sleep until Spring. While it may not seem so, Fall planting of trees, shrubs, Perennials, bulbs, and cool weather grasses like Fescue is a very good idea.

Roots of newly planted plants and trees can continue to grow and become established in temperatures as low as 40 degrees. And since the roots don’t have to supply the rest of the plant with energy to grow, more energy is focused on root production. Come Springtime, because of an established root system, plants shoot out of the ground with plenty of energy for top growth.

Soil Temperature

Planting in the fall, soil temperatures are still warm from a long Summer. The warmer soil temperature encourages root growth.

In the Spring, the soil is still cool from the Winter and roots are very slow to become established. Even if you grow plants from seed indoors and transplant outside when the temperature warms, new sprouts still don’t have the advantage of Fall planted plants.

When Exactly Is Fall?

The Fall season officially begins with the equinox in late September. However, Fall weather varies considerably from one part of the country to the next. Basically, the best period for fall planting is around six weeks before the first hard frost in your area. You can get an idea of the average first frost date near your area from here: http://www.almanac.com/garden/frostus.php . Just keep in mind that the roots need to have time to become established before Winter sets in.

Autumn Bloomers

Fall isn’t just a time to put the garden to sleep and start getting ready for Spring. The growing season isn’t quite over yet. You can add color and new life to the garden by replacing dying Summer Annuals and Perennials with Autumn blooming plants like Pansies, Chrysanthemums, and Ornamental Cabbage and Kale, Marigolds, and others.

It’s also the time to plant spring flowering bulbs and divide Perennials.

Try Your Hand At Organic Gardening

By Ahmed Hajouj.


In today’s world, we are constantly confronted with the many reasons why we need to eat healthier and exercise more in order to live longer and better lives. That being said, I see not enough information getting out about how we can actually put those principles into affect. I read that I need to exercise more, but would someone please give me a solid plan that actually works to improve my level of fitness? I am tired of not reading any good advice for making health progress, so I’ve decided to write some advice of my own. I have been a dietician for many years, but I am just now breaking into writing. My first health tip for anyone trying to see changes in their health is to try organic gardening.

Unfortunately, you can be eating a lot of fruits and vegetables but still be doing harm to your health. Why? Well, the ways that many of our healthiest foods are grown and then prepared to be sold are very unhealthy for us. There are so many pesticides and chemicals used on fresh foods today that you can sometimes be better off not eating the foods at all. A far better alternative, however, is to try your hand at organic gardening. Basically, organic gardening is a method of growing fruits and vegetables so that they grow free from all harmful pesticides and chemicals.

Organic gardening does not have to be as overwhelming or hard as it may sound. A first important step to take is to visit a local library or book store and learn all you can about organic gardening. Check out or purchase books and read up on all the great reasons why you should make an organic garden this season for your and your family.

You can also talk to owners of organic gardens in your area. Chances are that there are more organic gardens growing in your town than you probably imagine. So do some research and even make plans to visit an organic garden or two. Talk to people who are really doing it about the challenges and about the benefits of organic gardening.

Organic gardening may just become one of your favorite hobbies. It became one of mine and now me and my family are reaping all of the benefits of having healthy and fresh organic fruits and vegetables. Do it for the sake of your health and for a little fun.

The Different Roses You Can Grow In Your Rose Garden

By Ahmed Hajouj.


There are actually many kinds of roses, with each one different from the other. If you are planning to grow your own roses and plant your very own rose garden, what type of rose do you think you should have?

The Floribunda Rose

Gardeners love the floribunda rose simply because it is easy to grow, easy to take care of, and constantly in bloom. The floribunda rose is the result of crossing the modern hybrid tea rose with the polyantha rose. Its flowers are medium-sized, rarely larger than three inches across, and it produces clustering flowers on a single stem. Though the floribunda rose is always in bloom, it is not really known for its perfume. There are nonetheless some kinds of floribunda roses that are indeed perfumed, though these are not common. Floribunda roses grow best in beds although they can also thrive as edgings. If you do not have a lot of space for planting, you can grow floribunda roses in pots without any problems.

The Grandiflora Rose

As its name suggests, the grandiflora rose is a type of rose that blooms in clusters of big flowers. It is a tall and sturdy rose, often growing up to five feet in height. Despite the height, the grandiflora rose does not really require support from a stake; it can support itself. The grandiflora rose has long stems, which make it excellent as cut flowers for inclusion in bouquets and flower arrangements. Another characteristic of the grandiflora rose that makes it so attractive to gardeners is that it blooms constantly when it is in season.

The Hybrid Rose

The hybrid rose is considered to be the most beautiful among roses, and is thought to produce the perfect bloom, blossoming as a double flower with a high cone at its center. It is also the most popular among roses, and they are the typical rose that florists carry in their shops. Hybrid roses are large, and they come in a wide range of colors, including purple and blue. They are also sparse in producing flowers, and each flower grows on a single stem. Hybrid roses require a lot more care than the other types of roses, and it is always necessary to prune them often.

The Miniature Rose

Though miniature roses generally grow up to no more than six inches in height, there are some types of roses that grow up to three feet and yet are considered to be miniature roses. Miniature roses come in large varieties, from shrubs to creepers, and from single-stem blooms to clusters. Some miniature roses are perfumed while some are not. Most miniature roses bloom continuously whenever they are in season, and many gardeners have come to consider them as the only type of roses that can be grown as house plants.

The Polyantha Rose

Mostly grown for breeding purposes, the polyantha rose is older than most of today’s modern roses. It is also not as popular. But for all its low popularity among rose gardeners, the polyantha rose is actually a very hardy flower that is very easy to grow. It usually outlives its more exotic sisters. The polyantha rose blooms late in spring, and it appears as clusters of small, very vividly colored flowers with small leaves. It usually grows up to two feet in height. The polyantha rose grows as a bush and it is best planted in groups.

Caring for Your Rose Garden

Regardless of what kind of rose that you have got planted in your garden or whether you have different types of roses gracing your flower beds, it is important that you spend ample time and effort in caring for your rose garden.

Roses need a lot of water, and they will not be satisfied with brief watering sessions in the morning. They need to get their roots truly soaked, and this can only be done by slow watering over a period of hours. Naturally, you would be too busy to deal with that kind of watering, so it would be a great deal if you install a sort of irrigation system that will help you water your roses whenever you need to.

Constant pruning is another detail that you need to attend to in caring for your rose garden. Dead canes and unhealthy growths need to be cut as soon as they appear so as not to steal nutrients from the healthier canes. Dead blooms need to be removed to encourage the roses to produce more flowers. Regular pruning also airs out the rose plants, letting the air circulate more freely and discourage the growth of disease-causing germs and mold.

Roses also hate the winter season. So that your rose garden would see the coming spring time, they must be protected against the cold of winter.

Caring for your rose garden can be a laborious task, especially if you are growing different kinds of roses. But the rose rewards any effort put into its upkeep by becoming as beautiful a flower as it can be. The rose is the queen of flowers, after all.

The Secret To Healthier Plants Let S Ask My Grandfather

By Ahmed Hajouj.


My Grandfather was an old school farmer from way back who depended on his crops for his living. He, like farmers then and now, knew that the secret to optimum yield and plant health begins in the soil. If the soil was just right and other conditions were favorable, his yields were higher and he could make a descent living that would get his family through the rest of the year.

My grandfather also knew that the condition and health of the soil directly influenced the plants ability to resist disease and insects. Having to use any type of insecticide on his farm was virtually unheard of. And yet, he had no insect problem.

So the question of what is the secret to healthier and more beautiful plants should really begin with the question of what is the secret to healthy soil.

Many factors will influence the quality and condition of your soil. And at the top of the list is the ph (acidity or alkalinity) of soil. Most folks have heard about soil ph but very few know how important it is and the difference it makes in color, yield, flavor, heath, etc.

If the ph of soil is incorrect, nutrient uptake is limited or restricted altogether. It doesn’t matter how much fertilizer you add, the plants won’t be able to use it efficiently. Iron, for instance, becomes locked into soil that is too alkaline. It won’t matter how much iron you add, the plant won’t be able to pick it up and use it.

If growing is not optimal, plants start to yellow or look sickly, and there is no obvious signs of insects, the first place to start is by testing the soil. In granddads day, folks would actually taste the soil to test the ph. If it was sweet, it was acid. If it was sour, it was alkaline. Fortunately for us, we don’t have to go out to our gardens and eat dirt. Modern test kits are available at garden centers, they’re inexpensive and easy to use.

Most plants prefer a slightly acid to neutral soil. Neutral is a 7 on the scale while slightly acid is a 6 on the scale. And I did say most plants. Some plants do prefer more acid soil and some do like alkaline. It’s a good idea to know a little bit about what you’re growing.

Now, my grandfather had a magic ingredient that he continually added to the soil. This magic ingredient would actually create healthy soil, buffer perfect ph, and facilitate proper nutrient uptake. It also made plants not so tasty to insects. 

A magic ingredient? Not hardly. A lost art and science. Definitely. His magic ingredient was that he dutifully returned everything back into the soil. Everything from plant wastes to manure to kitchen scraps. His magic ingredient was nothing more than pure natural organics. If a soil was found to be out of balance, it was a matter of a simple adjustment. A little bit of sulfur to buffer alkalinity or a little bit of lime to buffer acid and also tilling in more bulk organics.

Farmers and gardeners back then couldn’t rely on a lot of chemical fertilizers because they were either unavailable or they simply couldn’t afford them. Oh I’m sure they would have liked to have had them since it would have made life much easier. However, what we didn’t use then that we do use now is why they had healthier plants, higher yields, better tasting food, more nutritional food, and even more colorful flowers. Again, the difference is organics. 

Organically prepared soil eventually becomes stable and naturally balance in ph. All necessary plant nutrients become available and plants are able to use what they need and only when they need it. An excesses of individual nutrients in organic soil will actually be buffered and not do the plants any harm.

Plants grown in organic soils are naturally more resistant to insects and disease. They’re simply healthier and insects and disease generally attacks plants that are already unhealthy to begin with. 

Chemical fertilizers are like a quick shot in the arm and plants will greedily take in more than they need. This weakens a plants ability to resist disease and insects. Then, of course, you’re going to need insecticides. However, healthy organic soil is also full of millions of beneficial bacteria and micro-organisms. Chemical fertilizers and insecticides will kill these very necessary elements and weaken plants immune systems even further. And so in using chemicals, we create a never ending no win cycle.



Creating organic soil will take a little effort and won’t happen overnight. It will take a few seasons. However, the rewards will far outweigh the effort. And eventually you’ll find that you spend less time taking care of your garden and more time enjoying it.

To begin with, start saving those leaves and grass clippings. This is a wonderful no cost resource. If you don’t have any of your own, I’m sure your neighbors will give you some of theirs. You can compost them or shred them as top dressing that will eventually break down into the soil.

I’ll also suggest two books to you. Rodales Complete Book Of Composting and Rodales Encyclopedia Of Organic Gardening. These two books alone will give you all the knowledge you need for composting and organic gardening.

Other secret ingredients are all around you, are usually free, and are often found right in your own trash can. Kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, and even some papers can be composted.

Have a friend with a stable? Some folks will let you clean out their stable just for doing it. This is a very inexpensive way to add a lot of bulk organics very quickly. Keep in mind though that manure is better composted as it is extremely alkaline due to a high content of urea.

On top of all of this there is an endless list of organic materials, mineral dusts, and rock fertilizers available through organic gardening stores and sites. 

So there you have it. I did learn something from my grandfather. And so did you.

Fun And Food In Home Grown Vegetable Gardening

Growing vegetables in your garden will prevent cash. throughout season, your own manufacture becomes a part of your meals. Home gardeners feel deep satisfaction in making ready dish or seasoning the casserole with freshly picked plants from their own vegetable gardens. Their feeling of the style is incommensurable. recent surplus area unit distributed to friends and love ones whereas some area unit keep frozen.

It doesn’t require much space to grow vegetables. Even a container pot or a window box will do the trick. Where space is limited, you can grow a mini-garden indoor or outdoor. If you have a good sun, access to water and enough containers, growing a garden’s worth of fruits and vegetables in a limited space is a no-brainer. You can even harvest more than one crop if your choice of plants and planting schemes are all well planned and executed. Windowsills, balconies and doorstep areas can be used, as well as empty packs of milks, pails, plastic buckets and cans.

When planting in containers, proper spacing is very important. One sturdy plant is better than several weak ones. Crowding chokes root systems will slow growth and poor production. With container vegetable garden, you no longer need to worry about poor soil types and bad drainage, or heavy-duty tiller to break up hard clay and rocks. There is no weeding to worry about and you can change the looks of your container placements by simply moving them around anytime to a place you wanted to. 

Vegetable gardening offers a change from the monotony of the supermarket. You can grow variety of vegetables that you want. When choosing plants for your vegetable container garden, consider container worthy crops such as beans, carrots, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and radish. Other root crops such onions and turnips can also do well in containers, but remember to always take care of these crops by ample fertilizers and water. Also consider grapes and berries. Though some take a while to get established, they bear fruits more each year. Planting for fall crops can be started in early summer, though summer planting can still be done in June in most regions.

One great advantage of growing vegetables and spices in containers involves the advent of the upside-down gardening. Crops with the likes of tomatoes, basil, parsley, rosemary and peppers do well with this approach. The ideas is that the vines will cascade downward instead of growing up a stake. A grow box can be treated by punching perforations through the bottom of a container. The other option is to purchase a device specially designed for this purpose. Upside gardens do not require a great deal of space and is perfect for balconies and patios.

Equally important, seeds and soil must properly be taken cared of in your vegetable container garden. Seeds do not always have to be bought. Reasonably fresh dill, anise, fennel, coriander and other seeds already on the spice rack should grow. If not, they are too old to add much to food anyway and should be replaced. Scoop out seeds from vegetables you’ve bought, dry them a week or so before planting.

Soil preparation on the other hand is very crucial for good results. Have the soil tested. Every state has a land-grant college that will test soil for a small fee. It will give abundant basic gardening advice, and garden resources tips. Start growing those veggies in your garden and turn your home made meals into something truly special. Take care of your plants to make them productive by keeping them watered and harvested.

Caring For The Indoor Bonsai Tree

By Ahmed Hajouj.


The indoor Bonsai Tree is a beautiful addition to any home or office, and once you learn how to care for these unique trees, they are a great hobby. 

Indoor Bonsai Trees are actually a miniature replica of a natural outdoor tree. The cultivation of the indoor Bonsai Tree first began in China and Japan centuries ago, but today growing the Bonsai Tree has become a popular hobby in many parts of the world.

One of the best aspects of the indoor Bonsai Tree is that it only becomes more beautiful with time with the right care. The indoor Bonsai Tree must receive enough sunlight without being exposed to temperatures that are too high or too low. If you live in a fairly mild climate you may want to place your tree on a patio or porch when temperatures permit.

If you live in a climate that reaches extreme temperatures, you may have to place your indoor Bonsai Tree in a room that receives plenty of light, but not right next to the window. 

Watering your indoor Bonsai Tree is another important element to properly caring for it. Your tree should be watered when the soil begins to appear dry, and it is very important that you never let the soil get too dry. 

Using the proper soil for the type of indoor Bonsai Tree that you have is also an essential element to caring for your tree. Always ensure that you have the right soil when planting or replanting your tree.

The correct use of liquid fertilizer may also determine how healthy your indoor Bonsai Tree will be. To guarantee that you are using the right fertilizer and applying it correctly, seek advice for the type of tree that you have.

For the indoor Bonsai Tree to grow properly, it is extremely important that you trim it at the appropriate times. Tropical and sub tropical indoor bonsai trees have to be trimmed throughout the year. Not only do the branches need to be trimmed but also the roots. Nevertheless, as different plants grow at diverse rates, you will have to assess your tree’s growth and change the trimming accordingly.

With proper care, your indoor Bonsai Tree can grow to be beautiful and healthy. Once you get the hang of caring for your Bonsai Tree, you may even want to add several more to your collection.

Planting Bulbs The Right Way

By Ahmed Hajouj.


This article explains a few things about planting bulbs, and if you’re interested, then this is worth reading, because you can never tell what you don’t know. 

How can you put a limit on learning more? The next section may contain that one little bit of wisdom that changes everything. 

There are many varieties of flowering plants, but few offer all the advantages of bulb plants. For starters, bulbs are generally inexpensive to buy, and they can be purchased through the mail or over the internet, since they are durable and easy to ship.

Bulbs are also beautiful, and some of the most beloved flowers in the garden, such as hyacinths, daffodils and of course tulips, are bulb plants. In addition, many bulbs can remain in the ground through the winter and bloom the next year. 

Even though bulbs are among the hardiest of all plants, it is important to exercise caution when planting them, and to buy only the best and most healthy bulbs. By choosing the healthiest bulbs, it will be easy to create a beautiful and healthy garden year after year.

When shopping for bulbs, it is important to look for the firmest, plumpest bulbs you can find. A good, high quality bulb will seem surprisingly heavy for its size. It is important to avoid bulbs that are too soft, since softness is often a sign of bulb rot. In addition, bulbs that are very light in weight, or that appear shriveled or cracked, should be rejected. These bulbs may have lost too much of their moisture to bloom in the garden.

The best blooms are generally provided by the largest bulbs. For instance, the largest daffodil bulbs will generally provide the biggest daffodils, and the biggest tulip bulbs will produce the largest tulips. Since bulbs bloom again and again, however, a most cost effective approach for the patient gardener is to buy small bulbs and allow them to grow over time. Each bloom will be larger than the last, and letting your own small bulbs grow can be a real treat for the gardener.

After you have bought the best bulbs you can find, it is important to exercise care when planting them. In order to thrive and grow, bulbs should be provided with a good well drained flower bed. If you have a poor draining soil, you may want to plant them on a slope or used a raised bed for better drainage.

Many people like to prepare an entire bed only for bulbs, while others prefer to intersperse their bulbs with other kinds of plants. Either approach can be great, but it is important to do the planting properly. To plant an entire bed of bulbs, you should first remove weeds and other vegetation from the bed. You should then spread between one and three inches of organic matter over the soil, then put down a small amount of a high quality fertilizer. When using fertilizer, it is important to follow the instructions on the package. After you have tilled and raked the soil, it is time to plant the bulbs.

Most bulbs should be planted three times as deep as the bulb is wide, so the average two inch wide bulb should be planted to a depth of about six inches. In sandy soils or hot climates, the bulbs should be planted a little bit deeper, while in heavy soil they should be planted a bit shallower. While it is fine to space bulbs close together, the more closely spaced the bulbs the more need there will be to divide them in a few years.

Using a bulb planter is a great idea when planting bulbs. If you do not have a bulb planter handy, you can use a garden trowel to dig the holes. Each hole should be dug a few inches deeper than needed, and a tablespoon of fertilizer should be placed in the base of each hole. The fertilizer should then be covered with a thin layer of soil, on top of which the bulb should be placed. The rest of the hole should then be filled with soil.

After planting the bulbs, you should be sure to water the bed thoroughly in order to get them off to a good start. Proper moisture at the start will allow them to establish a healthy root system.



Is there really any information about planting bulbs that is nonessential? We all see things from different angles, so something relatively insignificant to one may be crucial to another.